Purchasing a pet insurance policy before your rabbit becomes sick or wounded is one method to assure that you will not be caught without finances to pay for your rabbit’s medical treatment. Nationwide Pet Insurance is the only company in the United States that provides veterinary insurance for rabbits. (To learn more about pet insurance, go here.)
How much does it cost to insurance a rabbit?
What Does Rabbit Insurance Cost? Most Nationwide rabbit insurance plans start at around $10 per month, but prices vary depending on the insurance plan you choose and your rabbit’s health requirements.
Can bunnies have pet insurance?
Nationwide Insurance is currently the only business that offers pet insurance to rabbits. The cost of rabbit insurance varies depending on the breed and location of the rabbit, however some policies can be as little as $35 per month. They only provide one basic plan, dubbed “Bird and Exotic Pet Insurance.” Different limits and deductible alternatives may be available.
Here’s how a plan with an infinite amount of coverage, a $250 deductible, and a 90% reimbursement rate may work for rabbit owners. The rabbit visits a veterinarian and is charged up to $600 for covered procedures. The owner must pay the $250, leaving a $350 balance. The insurance company pays $315 (90 percent x $350), and the owner pays $35 (the remaining 10%) PLUS $250 for a total of $285.
While this may appear to be a large sum, it represents a significant saving when compared to the initial bill. Keep in mind that the cost of veterinary services for an exotic animal, which is how rabbits are commonly classified, might be substantially greater than $600 if the rabbit becomes unwell.
Rabbit owners must contact Nationwide directly to obtain the exact amount of coverage and expenses. The rabbit owner is responsible for paying for the treatments when they are rendered and then making an insurance claim. You can file the claim using your smartphone if you have their mobile app.
What is the monthly cost of owning a rabbit?
Food is another big cost. Of course, this is a recurring cost. Rabbits require both hay and vegetables to survive. What you choose for both of these areas will determine your cost. For example, there are high-priced and low-priced vegetables. In general, you may anticipate a monthly cost of around $40.
Is a rabbit a mammal?
Rabbits are little mammals with short, fluffy tails, whiskers, and long ears. Rabbits and hares are both members of the Leporidae family, but they belong to separate genera. Within the family, there are 11 genera, although the name “real hares” only applies to animals of the genus Lepus; all others are rabbits.
How much is pet insurance in Ontario?
It takes a lot more than going to the dog park or cuddling with your cat on a rainy day to be a pet owner. They require ongoing care, which can be costly, particularly if they develop health concerns or are involved in an accident. Vet expenses can run into the thousands of dollars depending on what’s wrong, which is why several companies provide pet insurance. Your pet is covered in the event of illness or injury for a monthly fee. In Canada, the average monthly insurance price for a dog is $39, and for a cat, it’s $29 not bad if you’re worried about astronomical vet expenses.
Is pet insurance, however, really worth it? Only 4.6 percent of Canadians insurance their dogs, according to a PC Financial poll. However, you should be aware that not all policies and providers are made equal before signing on the dotted line. Some companies, for example, may raise your monthly fees as your pet becomes older. Others may have limitations and exclusions. (This Consumer Reports article outlines everything you should look for when buying insurance, including the tiny print on what could lead to claim denials that aren’t anticipated.)
If you do decide to acquire pet insurance, you’ll need to figure out how much coverage you want. Will it be due to an accident, illness, dental work, wellness, or a mix of these factors? The cost of your insurance will vary depending on the coverage you choose. Accident-only insurance is frequently the cheapest (about $13 per month).
However, be aware that premiums can quickly add up. According to Moneysense, a medium-level policy with PetSecure, Canada’s largest pet health insurance provider, costs $520 per year. Even if you filed a claim, you’d still be responsible for a $500 yearly deductible and 20% of the bill. After additional deductions, the average insurance policy payment is only $187.40. Thousands of dollars could be spent over the course of your pet’s life.
So, what are your options if you don’t want to get insurance? You can pay bills as they arise, or if you’re concerned about receiving a large bill in the future, set up a high-interest savings account for your pet care expenses and save monthly. Put the money you would have spent on insurance into a savings account every month. If you don’t end up requiring it for your pet, you may simply keep the money.
Do Bunnies need to be vaccinated?
Rabbits are becoming increasingly popular as family pets. “Rabbits continue to be the most popular type of small animal, owned by 43 percent of small animal owners,” according to the 2017-2018 APPA National Pet Owners Survey. It was the highest amount reported in a decade, up from the preceding National Pet Owners Survey. Pet rabbits are still a popular choice among small-pet owners.
Continue reading to learn more, and remember that if you are unable to care for your pets due to work or travel, you should always hire a professional pet sitter. PSI’s Pet Sitter Locator can help you find a professional pet sitter in your area.
Rabbits were originally classified as rodents due to dental similarities, but they are now classified as members of the Lagomorpha order and are sometimes confused with another lagomorph species, hares. It’s interesting to note that, whereas rabbits are born absolutely helpless, naked, and blind, hares are born with fur, can see, and can live independently just one hour after birth! Size of the head and legs, nutrition, and sociability are among the other variations between the two. Rabbits are often smaller, eat softer meals, and are more easily tamed. They’re also split into various genera and species, including Oryctolagus cuniculus, which is the ancestor of all domestic rabbits.
According to the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), there are more than 45 recognized rabbit breeds that range in size from two to fifteen pounds and live for five to ten years on average (if they are spayed or neutered.)
Although pet rabbits in the United States are not required to be vaccinated, physicians in the United Kingdom and other areas of Europe frequently administer vaccines to protect wild rabbits from two lethal viruses: myxomatosis and viral hemorrhagic disease (VHD). After being purposely introduced into France (and Australia) to reduce the wild rabbit population, myxomatosis moved to the United Kingdom. Myxomatosis is now being seen, albeit infrequently, throughout the Pacific coast of the United States. Direct contact with other rabbits as well as insect (mosquito) bites make it communicable.
VHD, also known as RHD (Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease) and RDC (Rabbit Calicivirus Disease), was developed as a biological control tool for a rapidly expanding rabbit population in other countries. It has only recently become common in the United States. RHD is transferred by direct touch, same as Myxomatosis, but it can also live for up to three months on contaminated surfaces including clothing and bedding. Australians are vaccinated against VHD, however they do not have access to the Myxomatosis vaccine at this time.
Furthermore, all rabbits are susceptible to Pasteurella bacteria, which has no vaccination at this time. The bacteria enters the rabbit’s system through open wounds or nasal passages. Rabbits with robust immune systems are more likely to fight the infection, but they can potentially become carriers. Pasteurellosis in rabbits usually manifests as an upper respiratory illness, which should be treated with medicines before the infection progresses to crucial organs. Your best bet for keeping your rabbit healthy and safe is to consult a veterinarian that specializes in “exotics.”
Breeders, pet stores, and shelters are the most common places where rabbits are adopted, depending on what a person wants in a pet. If you want to show your rabbit or are looking for a specific or rare breed, do your homework first and then choose a qualified breeder. Breeders can provide a wealth of knowledge on any rabbit-related topic. They’ll frequently have the rabbits’ parents on hand, and if the rabbitry is tiny, they might have socialized babies. Purebred rabbits, on the other hand, will set you back a significant amount of money.
Domestic rabbits acquired purely for companionship, as well as some of the more common varieties, will be far less expensive than their pedigreed counterparts. Make sure you go to a reputable pet store with excellent animal care and experienced employees. Caregivers should, in theory, be able to tell you something about a rabbit’s history and disposition. If you need to know a rabbit’s personality right away, you should go with an older bunny. Many shelters and rescue organizations have older bunnies for adoption, and volunteers who have spent time with the rabbits will be able to provide information on each bunny’s unique characteristics. Furthermore, elder rabbits are often neutered and litter-trained. Furthermore, if it doesn’t work out, the shelter will most likely take it back.
It doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive to create a “wonderland” for your rabbit, but it will require some planning and upkeep. Whether you keep your bunny indoors or outside, he has to be protected from predators and inclement weather. Weatherproofed outdoor hutches should be encircled by tight fencing and elevated three to four feet from the ground. The hutch should be well-ventilated, but not drafty, and quiet, not secluded, regardless of where it is placed.
Your rabbit should be able to stand up on his hind legs, stretch out, and roam around freely in his cage when he is completely grown. Four to five times your rabbit’s mature size is the standard rule for minimum cage volume (don’t forget his height!). Pens come in a range of sizes and materials, with heavy-gauge wire, plastic, and wood being the most prevalent. Each design has benefits and drawbacks, so the cage you choose should take into account your rabbit’s safety as well as your choice for cleaning and simple access. The Ontario Rabbit Education Organization offers a great instruction on this topic.
The following is a list of some other items you’ll need to include in the bunny’s cage:
- Materials like wool, hay, or newspapers can be used as bedding, but they should be replenished frequently as they grow soiled. Wood shavings and cat litter are not suggested because ingesting them can create medical concerns. Your bunny may enjoy lying on or playing with an old blanket, but proceed with caution until you know what your bunny enjoys chewing on.
- A natural litter, hay, or another substance specified by your veterinarian or breeder can be used in a plastic cat litter box or specifically constructed rabbit litter pan. Because it can be ingested or inhaled, clumping cat litter is not suggested.
- Hanging racks or heavy ceramic food or water dishes Within their larger cage, many rabbits choose a nesting box. This might be as basic as an old shoebox, as long as he has somewhere to “hide” when he needs to.
Be patient when you initially bring your new rabbit home. He’ll need some time to adjust to his new surroundings and investigate them.
Your rabbit will require plenty of unrestricted playtime outside of his cage, whether he lives indoors or outdoors. A tiny kitchen or bathroom makes an excellent first play place because they lack cushioned furniture and carpets, making them simple to “bunny proof.” Because bunnies can be naughty, you’ll want to keep an eye on your rabbit’s safety and gradually introduce him to different areas of your home.
Here are some tips to protect both your rabbit and your belongings, in addition to taking steps to keep your bunny limited to his play area:
- All exposed electrical and phone cords should be unplugged, moved, or covered with strong plastic tubing.
- All toilet seats should be closed. Other pets should be introduced slowly until you’re sure they’ll get along.
- Make sure your rabbit has sticks or toys to chew on, old sheets or towels to dig in, and access to his litter box.
- Any non-toxic household plants should be moved out of reach, and all toxic plants should be removed. Rabbit Advocates provides a list of plants that are poisonous to rabbits.
- Plexiglas or grass mats can be used to block off or hide preferred digging or chewing areas.
- Block off any tight crevices or hiding spots where your rabbit can get stuck or hurt, such as the underside of appliances or furniture.
Your rabbit will love the sunshine and fresh air of an outside run if the weather permits. You’ll need to keep predators out as well as secure the perimeter to keep your rabbit in, which could include putting a top on the run. Your rabbit, like any other animal, will require food, water, and shelter from severe weather and temperature extremes.
Rabbits are herbivores by nature, eating mostly grass and leafy vegetation. However, if you adopt a rabbit, you must continue to feed him his regular diet to avoid intestinal problems. Your veterinarian, rabbit breeder, or pet store staff should be able to advise you on what sorts of food to feed your rabbit as he grows, as well as how much to feed him. If you need to make dietary changes or introduce new foods to him, do it gradually.
Your rabbit will be healthy and happy if you feed him commercially prepared pellets made exclusively for rabbits, good quality hay, and some fresh vegetables or fruit every day. Rabbit pellets are specially prepared to give all of the vitamins and minerals your bunny requires, while hay provides roughage and helps prevent furballs. Rabbits, unlike cats, cannot regurgitate, and furballs can be lethal.
Broccoli leaves and stems, kale, sweet potatoes, greens, apples, carrots, and parsley are some fruits and vegetables that your bunny will eat. On the Rabbit Advocates website, you may find a more thorough list. Some rabbits will like rolling oats or alfalfa cubes as addition to these snacks, and may even benefit from gnawing on an untreated apple limb or rabbit chews. Gnawing is a good way to keep your rabbit’s teeth in good shape. Before introducing anything new to your rabbit, consult your veterinarian or breeder.
It goes without saying that your rabbit should always have access to fresh water. Some rabbits prefer a sipper bottle to a bowl, but both must be refilled and cleaned on a daily basis. (A word of warning with sipper bottles: after cleaning, make sure the ball returns to the tube’s tip.) Your rabbit will be without water if it gets trapped in the center!)
We can trace most of the rabbit’s behavior back to his wild forebears, as we can with any tamed animal. Rabbits are natural diggers and burrowers, which comes as no surprise. A safe excavation for houses and birthing grounds in the wild can exceed three feet in depth; therefore, if your rabbit has the opportunity, he will spoil a carpet or dig a tunnel in your garden in almost no time. Your best bet is to keep a tight eye on him and supply him with safe options to satisfy his natural need to dig.
Rabbits are also naturally clean and groom themselves on a regular basis, just like cats. Rabbits have a strong desire for cleanliness, which is why they only utilize one location in their hutch to discharge themselves. You may also observe your rabbit eating his “cecotrophes,” the softer, more irregularly shaped stools, to “clean” his self-made toilet. These droppings are high in vitamins and fiber, and they are essential to the rabbit’s health.
Rabbits can be feisty creatures because they lack natural defenses. If a wild animal detects danger, he will thump his rear legs to alarm the rest of the warren. If your bunny feels threatened, he will react similarly. Rabbits are easily traumatized and can even die from fear or anxiety. Providing him with a safe refuge (a nest within an enclosure) at all times allows him to flee and possibly saves his life. Protecting your rabbit from what he perceives as danger, whether it is real or not, is critical. Dogs, cats, other pets, and humans (especially rowdy children) can cause him to get anxious. Make sure everyone in your family is calm around your bunny because he can smell their emotions. Gradually introduce him to family members until he realizes they are trustworthy. If you get more than one bunny, the two males will very certainly fight in the enclosure. The optimum combination is one of each gender.
For most of his senses, a rabbit relies on his nose. He’ll pick up on your odors, shapes, and noises to recognize you, other family members, and other pets. It’s possible that you’ll have to start your relationship with your rabbit by simply talking to him gently numerous times a day without forcing any immediate contact. When he’s ready to interact and possibly be stroked, he’ll let you know. Pet him on the head or back lightly, but don’t put your palm on his nose like you would a dog. Your rabbit has a blind spot right in front of his nose, and he’ll bite your palm if he sees it. Spending regular time with your bunny will speed up the bonding process, and while most bunnies dislike being held, if you start carefully and hold him frequently from a young age, you may be able to train him to trust you. Rabbits, despite their strength, are quite vulnerable, especially in their hind legs. It’s critical to know how to pick them up properly, as rabbits can quickly break their backs if handled incorrectly. Support his chest with one hand while supporting his hind end with the other. To feel safe, bring him close to your body and allow him to bury his nose in the crook of your arm. Never pick up a rabbit by the ears or attempt to carry or handle one that does not want to be carried.
Holding, observing, and grooming your rabbit on a daily basis can help you keep track of any changes in his health. Overgrown teeth, foot problems, and digestive and respiratory troubles are the most common health concerns for rabbits. Diarrhea, hard breathing, loss of appetite, and head tilt are serious concerns that require emergency veterinary intervention. However, with proper housing, feeding, and grooming, your rabbit’s chances of suffering a major illness are considerably reduced. Spaying and neutering is also recommended to prevent certain types of malignancies as well as unwanted territorial behaviors like aggression and spraying. To keep your rabbit happy, take the time to get to know it and see your veterinarian on a regular basis.
Rabbits are sociable, active, and entertaining. They require constant connection and playtime with their caregivers or other rabbits. Most rabbits may make good companions if given the correct care. Furthermore, they come in a variety of breeds, colors, and hair types to fit practically any taste. Rabbits are not advised for young children, especially as Easter pets, despite their generally peaceful temperament. According to the House Rabbit Society, “Children enjoy having a toy that they can hold and snuggle. That is one of the reasons why stuffed animals are so popular. Rabbits are not cuddly or passive. They are ground-loving creatures who become fearful and uncomfortable when constrained. As a result, the child loses interest in the rabbit, which then becomes neglected or abandoned. After Easter, humane organizations like the House Rabbit Society report a significant spike in the number of abandoned bunnies. By educating yourself and others, you may help us break the yearly cycle.”
A rabbit need the same level of attention and care as a dog. If you’re ready to make the commitment after thoroughly researching the species and breed, go for it! If you’re not quite ready, or if you have little children, you may try digging up an old copy of The Velveteen Rabbit. You never know, you might wind up with an actual rabbit in your life!
Are rabbits expensive to keep?
Aside from the hutch or cage, your rabbit will require supplies on a regular basis. Bedding, food, treats, and chew toys will all have to be replaced on a regular basis. I’d anticipate to spend roughly $40 per month for bedding, hay and pellets, fresh vegetables, plus treats and toys for one rabbit. However, depending on whether you buy bedding and hay in bulk, supply organic, ordinary, or homegrown greens, and what kind of snacks and toys you buy or manufacture, this figure might vary significantly.
Why is pet insurance so expensive?
It’s not much consolation, but you’re not alone in experiencing price rises. Year after year, the cost of pet insurance rises for the majority of pet owners. There are a number of reasons for this:
- Overall, insurance rates are rising. Veterinary treatments have advanced to the point where veterinarians can now do more for pets than ever before. However, these therapies come at a price, and they will unavoidably affect pet insurance premiums.
- Your pet is a senior citizen. The chance of animals being ill grows as they become older, and as a result, the cost of insurance rises. Only pets in their first year of life are exempt from this ban.
- You filed a claim after your pet became ill in the previous year. If your claims history indicates that your pet is more likely to require additional treatment, your premiums may reflect this.
- You may have received an initial discount if you started a new job a year ago. When that period finishes, you should expect a significant price increase.
- Finally, insurance firms are businesses that strive for profitability. Some of them are more aggressive in raising their rates than others, and they are willing to take the risk of losing clients as a result.
Can you insure birds?
Almost any bird, whether a giant parrot, a bird of prey, or a little bird, can be insured. Your coverage and premium expenses may differ depending on the sort of feathery companion you have. However, there aren’t many businesses that provide this service.